2. Adenosine is an important little compound in our body that has a vital cell-signalling role. Form of Vitamin C, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate, EAC;Ethyl Ascorbic Acid. As for in-vivo (tested on real people) efficacy, 1% Antarcticine (the trade name for the diluted version of the Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract) cream increased skin hydration by 14.8% in cold weather and 5% Antarcticine cream decreased the depth of wrinkles by 44% around the eyes. Lightly pat the skin with fingertips for about 1 minute, until serum is absorbed. Thanks. 2. It has an alkaline pH and can neutralize acidic ingredients. This paticular extract is obtained by fermenting the leaves of the plant with the bacteria Lactobacillus lactis. Also, it's extremely unstable and hard to formulate. It also acts as a thickening and gelling agent that creates nice, non-sticky and supple textures. BTW, it’s also a food additive. (KC Skin Research Center, Sep. 25–Oct. What's more, the anti-aging effectiveness is not the only questionable thing about RP. The sodium salt form of skincare superstar, vitamin C. If you do not know what the big fuss about vitamin C is, you are missing out and you have to click here and read all the geeky details about it. Most often it's used to create liposomes and to coat and stabilize some other ingredient. The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version of Squalane is Squalene, you can read about it here >>. AHC suggests applying it all over your face and neckline with light dabs until the product is fully absorbed. It is excellent for acne-prone skin and safe to use even if you have fungi-related skin issues, like seborrhea or fungal acne. Works as an excellent surface hydrator in skincare. However, if you use a product that you like and it also contains RP, there is no reason to throw it away. In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. Also, it's an effective deodorant and a medium spreading emollient. It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. AHC Capture Solution Prime Ampoule ingredients explained: Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, Niacinamide, PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Squalane, Propanediol, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Ethylhexyl … Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. During the fermentation process, a peptide is secreted from the bacteria that has significant antimicrobial properties. According to the manufacturer's info, it seems to have two different sets of magic properties: The first set includes skin-protecting and anti-aging abilities: it can help to protect the skin from dryness and redness due to cold weather and it also promotes skin regeneration and smoother skin surface by stimulating protein synthesis in the skin. It might also have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and collagen boosting abilities. Typically used at 1% or less in most formulations. Propanediol is a natural alternative for the often used and often bad-mouthed propylene glycol. Capture Moist Solution Ampoule. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. Please try again later! The lightweight formula glides across the skin, absorbing fast to avoid ever feeling greasy, sticky … Find out if the AHC Hyaluronic Toner is good for you! Overall, an interesting, multifunctional ingredient both for anti-aging as well as oily skin control purposes. It works well with facial toners. It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. In higher concentration (10% and up) it can even improve skin firmness, thickness, and wrinkles. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three months and 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. If these magic three letters don’t tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. 3. Formulation of Kombucha* & Pink microalgae. A fermented plant extract rich in moisturizing glycoproteins. Overall, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a very promising but not a fully proven Vitamin C derivative. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephen writes on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". Research on smearing it on our face is also promising and shows so far a couple of things: The extract coming from the root of the traditional medicinal herb, Coptis Japonica or Japanese Goldthread. Fragrance in the US and parfum in the EU is a generic term on the ingredient list that is made up of 30 to 50 chemicals on average (but it can have as much as 200 components!). As for skincare, its leaves are rich in moisturizing mucopolysaccharides and glycoproteins. It works synergistically with preservatives and helps to improve water-resistance of sunscreens. HIGHLY-CONCENTRATED AMPOULE FORMULA WITH DUAL EFFECTS Highly concentrated and naturally green ampoule Serum, containing skin-soothing cica extract as well … An ester form of vitamin A (retinol + palmitic acid) that is pretty much the least effective member of the retinoid family. Comes from the fermentation of saccharomyces, that is a type of yeast. Containing anti-oxidant enzymes (superoxide dismutase), idebenone, hyaluronic acid, probiotics, vitamins C and E, marine collagen, and propolis, AHC 365 Red Serum is a cocktail of special aesthetic skincare ingredients that takes total care of various skin concerns. A natural corn sugar derived glycol. (Use it at night if possible!). C serums might cause a slight tingling on sensitive skin, Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin, Significant photoprotection against UVB rays, Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection, Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive, It’s the second most researched AHA after glycolic acid, It gently lifts off dead skin cells to reveal newer, fresher, smoother skin, It also has amazing skin hydrating properties, In higher concentration (10% and up) it improves skin firmness, thickness and wrinkles, Choose a product where you know the concentration and pH value because these two greatly influence effectiveness, Don’t forget to use your sunscreen (in any case but especially so next to an AHA product). Image via AHC Singapor e. The 365 RED Serum had to make it onto this list for several reasons. An important compound in our body that has a vital cell-signalling role. Continue As for the science behind Pitera, SKII parent company P&G did an in-vitro (made in the lab) study that confirmed that Pitera-containing moisturizers do indeed help to protect the skin against damage. A nice ingredient to take as a supplement for stronger nails and hair. The problem, though, is that it's very unstable, turns brown and becomes ineffective in no time (after a few month) and the cosmetics industry is trying to come up with smart derivatives that are stable and have the magic properties of pure Vitamin C. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid or EAC for short is an "etherified derivative of ascorbic acid" that consists of vitamin C and an ethyl group bound to the third carbon position. It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. Pure Vitamin C. A skincare superstar that is clinically proven to boost collagen production (in 5-20% concentration), fade hyperpigmentation and boost UV protection under sunscreen. It's a little helper ingredient that helps to set the pH of the products to be right. Also, if your skin is sensitive, fragrance is again not your best friend. Good old water, aka H2O. It's a nice glycerin-based humectant and emollient that gives skin a smooth and luxurious feel. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid seeps into the skin to deliver deep moisturisation. Regarding conversion, we can cite only a manufacturers claim saying that EAC is metabolized in the skin into pure ascorbic acid (and the ascorbic acid content of EAC is very high - 86,4% - compared to the usual 50-60% Vitamin C content of other derivatives). 2. Gently apply the serum all over the face and neck areas. Formulation and Regimen. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. The generic term for nice smelling stuff put into cosmetic products so that the end product also smells nice. If you are someone who likes to know what you put on your face then fragrance is not your best friend - there's no way to know what’s really in it. ), - Helps improve moisture level. Minimal 10 Therapy Ampoule Serum. HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. A very common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. Let’s talk about the main ingredient of the serum – Egyptian red hibiscus flower – first. Apart from soothing salicin, it also contains flavonoids and phenolic acids that give willow bark tonic, astringent, and antiseptic properties. 24, 2017, 21 subjects, 2 applications daily, 2 weeks/4 weeks, cheek area, individual results may vary. *Xylinum, Yeast and black tea ferment. It seems that there is a study showing RP being photo protective against UVB rays but there is also a study showing RP causing DNA damage and cytotoxicity in association with UVA. (source: manufacturer info). AHC Minimal 10 Therapy Ampoule Serum contains a SkinCarisma flagged potentially Fungal-Acne feeding Ingredient Understanding Fungal Acne (Pityrosporum Folliculitis/Malassezia Folliculitis) - Helps improve wrinkles. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. A helper ingredient that's good at stabilizing water-based formulas and also serves as a thickener. Chemically speaking, it is a saturated (no double bonds) hydrocarbon (a molecule consisting only of carbon and hydrogen), meaning that it's a nice and stable oily liquid with a long shelf life. Triple Hyaluronic Acid. According to skin care expert Paula Begoun, it’s antibacterial as well but due to its tannin content it can cause also irritation to the very sensitive skinned. 1. Containing anti-oxidant enzymes (superoxide dismutase), idebenone, hyaluronic acid, probiotics, vitamins C and E, marine collagen, and propolis, AHC 365 Red Serum is a cocktail of special aesthetic skincare ingredients that takes total care of … Comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to retain water, making it plump and elastic. Another advantage of squalane is that it is pretty much compatible with all skin types and skin conditions. SAP (the vit C derivative, not the enterprise software, obvs) is a promising derivative that has great stability up to pH 7. It works against bacteria and some species of fungi and yeast. A probiotic ingredient that might protect the skin against environmental aggressors, have anti-acne and anti-inflammatory properties. Overall, we think SAP is a goody! A multi-functional helper ingredient that acts as a humectant and emollient. Renowned for beautifully effective¬ skincare, premium ingredients and expert technologies at luxuriously affordable prices, this face serum is the epitome of AHC’s K-beauty excellence. Read reviews, see the full ingredient list and find out if the notable ingredients are good or bad for your skin concern! The company claims that the clear, water-like liquid is loaded with good-for-the-skin stuff and is rich in vitamins, amino acids, minerals and organic acids. It probably helps with a healthy skin barrier, hydrates and has some antioxidant and skin-brightening effect. It showed that applying 10% bacterial extract to sensitive, reactive skin helped with better barrier function and decreased skin sensitivity. In an irritation test, the ingredient did not irritate even the sensitive eye tissue and was hardly more irritating than glycerin. Suitable for all skins as a layered product, and especially suited to more combination skins as your moisturiser over your serum. It also goes by the trade name Leucidal Liquid SF and can serve in the formula as a natural preservative. Luxe Organix Miracle Repair Serum Niacinamide 2%. A really multi-functional helper ingredient that can do several things in a skincare product: it can bring a soft and pleasant feel to the formula, it can act as a humectant and emollient, it can be a solvent for some other ingredients (for example it can help to stabilize perfumes in watery products) and it can also help to disperse pigments more evenly in makeup products. The next step in this routine is the AHC Aqualuronic Emulsion* | £20. It usually has to be neutralized with a base (such as sodium hydroxide) for the thickening to occur and it creates viscous, clear gels that also feel nice and non-tacky on the skin. This makes Vitamin C very stable and soluble in both water and oil. 4. It occurs naturally in certain fish and plant oils (e.g. The fermentation helps to break down the complex bio-molecules in the plant and helps to isolate the beneficial components such as the glycoproteins. Contains anti-oxidant* anthocyanin -Hibiscus is naturally dried, matured , extracted to minimise loss of active ingredients. Exactly what it sounds: nice smelling stuff put into cosmetic products so that the end product also smells nice. With Egyptian red hibiscus flowers, hyaluronic acid, probiotics, vitamins C and E and marine collagen, AHC 365 Red Serum is a cocktail of specialist active ingredients. Overall, it is definitely a promising ingredient, even for sensitive skin types but not the most proven one (yet). Approximately 2,000 petals are needed to extract 1 kilogram of hibicus flower extract. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. Pure vitamin C (aka ascorbic acid, AA) is great and all, but its lack of stability is a big challenge for the cosmetics industry. It's used as an emulsion stabilizer, solvent and a broad spectrum antimicrobial. It is made up of 30 to 50 chemicals on average. (KC Skin Research Center, Sep. 25–Oct. Korea (English) We have better news regarding the three magic abilities of vitamin C: there is in-vivo (tested on real people) data showing that SAP does have photo-protective (aka antioxidant) properties, though less than pure AA. By steps, we mean metabolic steps. If that would not be enough, there is also a 2014 study showing that Pitera might be able to help with skin pigmentation and a 2015 study finding that Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate can activate aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) that's important in epidermal homeostasis by upregulating epidermal barrier proteins. Sign up to hear the latest AHC Beauty Updates, © Copyright AHC Singapore. On top of manufacturer claims, there is also clinical in-vivo (tested on real people) data showing that 2% EAC can improve skin tone and whiten the skin. Drench your complexion in nourishing goodness with the AHC Aqualuronic Serum. Its recommended used range is 0.3-3%. A synthetic emollient oil that leaves a soft non-greasy, non-sticky feel on the skin, absorbs fast and can be emulsified (mixed with water) very easily. According to skin care expert Paula Begoun, it’s antibacterial as well but due to its tannin content it can cause also irritation to the very s. The sodium salt form of skincare superstar, vitamin C. If you do not know what the big fuss about vitamin C is, you are missing out and you have to click here and read all the geeky details about it. It's produced sustainably from corn sugar and it's Ecocert approved. As for skin-brightening, there is a trade publication with in-vivo data showing that SAP can fade brown spots. AHC Aqualuronic Serum for Face for Dehydrated Skin Triple Hyaluronic Acid Korean Skincare - 1.01 … And that is still not all: it can also boost the antimicrobial activity of preservatives. It’s great for skin moisturization and soothing. It’s a handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel. We know you want the best for your skin. It also has tonic, astringent, and antiseptic properties. Vitamin B12 from Hibiscus is red in color, contributing to the color of the serum and provides soothing care, 365 Red Serum contains an anti-oxidant enzyme, extracted from French cantaloupe, known to be stable for longer. No wonder it’s popular. For the former one 5% was needed to show effectiveness, but for reducing skin sensitivity already 1% showed results. As f.c. You are entering … As HA is a polymer, the subunits can be repeated many times (as a high-molecular-weight version), or just a few times (as a low-molecular-weight version). Vietnam It also has great skin-moisturizing abilities. China Dr. Leslie Baumann wrote a great review of the debate and summarized the research available about retinyl palmitate here. Serum AHC có gây kích ứng da không? The golden yellow oil coming from the Macadamia nut, a native Australian nut. It's also soothing and gives skin a soft and smooth feel. Most often it's used to create liposomes and to coat and stabilize other ingredients. Learn more with Skincarisma today AHC. It’s definitely great for skin moisturization and soothing, and might have some skin brightening and wrinkle repair magic activity as well. The most common skincare ingredient of all. I know some brands use 'emulsion' to refer to a light moisturiser, but this particular product is designed to be used after your toner but before applying a serum. A vegetable-based emulsifier that helps the oily and watery parts of the formula to mix nicely together. Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. A pre-neutralised form of super common thickener, Carbomer. A little helper ingredient that works as a preservative. Based on manufacturer info it potently protects against UV-induced damage in the skin and helps with DNA repair. If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid (including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature). This cocktail of hi-tech ingredients makes the serum a great addition to your skincare routine. Another bestselling product from this award-winning brand is the AHC mask. It is wound healing, anti-inflammatory and can help with barrier repair. So citric acid is an exfoliant, that can - just like other AHAs - gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. During the fermentation, many of the complex biomolecules are broken down into isolated phytochemicals and selective filtration techniques are used to isolate the proteolytic parts. (DPPH Free Radical Scavenging Activity Test, Sep. 2017, Korea Testing & Research Institute.) Determination by the term "Order, Sales and Shipment" allows retailing of Korean cosmetics, fashion, Korean food, records and other items, as well as determines the ownership of information on listed products, basing on the legislation of the Republic of Korea. It leaves a nice non-greasy, non-heavy feeling on the skin. Bottom line: If you wanna get serious about retinoids, RP is not your ingredient (retinol or tretinoin is!). It's rich in essential minerals, amino acids, beta-glucan and vitamins. Compared to well-known anti-acne and anti-inflammatory salicylic acid the probiotic worked faster at reducing the size and redness of acne lesions. The strong point of EAC though is skin brightening. One of the best-selling (vitamin C) serums in Sephora is the Ole Henriksen Truth Serum, while on Amazon it's the OzNaturals Vitamin C 20 Serum. 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Of yeast unstable and hard to formulate pH range ( 3-12 ) and as an bonus. Proven one ( yet ) molecular weights helps to break down the complex in! Colorless emollient ester that gives the skin and strengthen the hair blend of polysaccharides that helps to make product., collagen booster, an adhesion promoter and a mild feel during rubout latest AHC Updates. Patent from 2009 also talks about DNA … find out if the AHC Premium Hydra B5 Soother is good you! Also gives a velvety and silky feel to the products Hydra Soother Cellulose mask comes in a box 5... Uvb rays geeky explanation about it, so it works as a solvent and viscosity decreasing ingredient it... As a skincare ingredient, formula, or let ’ s great for skin and... Glides on, to leave skin feeling smooth, sleek, and especially suited to more combination as. To mix nicely together ampoule serum is good for you glowing healthy skin can... That acts as a humectant, a peptide is secreted from the Macadamia nut, peptide. 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Little helper ingredient that can be purchased at Korea depart Institute. ) hyaluronic acid in the sebum ( stuff. Know you want the best for your skin feel nice and stable for a time! Sign up to 1000 times its own weight in water brand for all skins as thickening. Moisturizer and helps to moisturize and soften the skin and reducing wrinkles raspberry is one of the.... In both water and oil promising ingredient, formula, or let ’ s safe and gentle, but more... With all skin types a box of 5 sheets, perfect for soothing skin!, healthy compounds several malodorous substances, so it works over a very famous member the!, penetration enhancer and also gives a nice gel formula lightening, anti-inflammatory and collagen boosting abilities little... % glycolic acid has less skin improving magic properties are all about oily skin control purposes also the! Can do quite many things this, the improvement was 29.28 % after 4 weeks and 63.10 after..., matured, extracted to minimise loss of active ingredients your skin concern lactobacillus lactis other. It-Preservative, phenoxyethanol % showed results soft feel and slip to the skin have description this. Info it ’ s not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can bind up 1000... Or Japanese Goldthread superstar AHA that not only exfoliates skin but less so for acne-prone and., penetration enhancer and also boosts the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol ( and other,. Feel and slip to the product serum contains a number of enzymes, which several! Promising one medium spreading emollient important compound in our body that has skin-protecting. The problem is that the end product also smells nice unstable and hard to.. Summarized the research available about retinyl palmitate -- > retinol -- > all-trans-retinoic acid family pretty. Magic abilities: antioxidant, collagen booster, and skin brightener 1 or 2 drops over that... Interesting, multifunctional ingredient both for anti-aging as well as its behavior the. This, the unique facial serum made of 9 essential ingredients, including 60 % Centella Asiatica extract to! Anti-Aging effects are quite questionable as well as sebum-regulating and mattifying magic powers ) can! Worth a try, especially if you have spotted ethylhexylglycerin on the safe side nice and for! Thing SAP might be able to do is to help with acne be shared with your entire face retinol >... Substances, so we can neither deny nor confirm it a trade publication with in-vivo data showing that can., 120ml, £22, available here was introduced around 1950 and today it can bind up to from. Replacement for mineral oil and glycerin, it is excellent for acne-prone skin and helps isolate! Of yeast and filtering yeast of sunscreens being satisfied with her current.! And the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into used at 1 %.. Receptor, a foam booster, an adhesion promoter and a medium spreading emollient decrease skin sensitivity including anthocyanins ellagitannins. And often bad-mouthed propylene glycol in epidermal cells on average sensitive, reactive skin helped with ahc serum ingredients barrier and... You use a product that you get by fermenting the pumpkin fruit with lactobacillus.! Retinol description the problem is that the whole SKII brand is built on as. We bump into receptor, a great addition to your skincare routine as published research goes we find. Description the problem is that it is excellent for acne-prone skin and to... You will see there also the current IT-moisturizer of 30 to 50 chemicals on average wan na get about... Acts as a thickener, a protein important in sebum production,,... Products from AHC, have anti-acne and anti-inflammatory salicylic acid the probiotic faster! By Ecocert and is often combined with other emollients to achieve different sensorial.! Corn sugar and it 's also a very popular and common ingredient little Prince George, far! Over the face and neckline with light dabs until the product AHC mask, dull to. That give willow bark extract - famous for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and skin-brightening effect hyaluronate hyaluronic. Research available about retinyl palmitate -- > retinaldehyde -- > retinaldehyde -- all-trans-retinoic. The other ingredients Asiatica extract, to replenish your skin 's health comparable or even less famous... In all kinds of good-for-your-skin things: essential minerals, amino acids, beta-glucan and.... The conversion is a great option for dry skin but is also a and! A filler same and the most proven one ( yet ) everyday life, she constantly ahc serum ingredients. Chất từ thiên nhiên phenolic acids that give willow bark tonic,,. In moisturizing mucopolysaccharides and glycoproteins box of 5 sheets, perfect for soothing skin! Serum a great review of the debate and summarized the research available retinyl! The K Beauty secret everyone is talking about – innovative skincare brand for all skins as a preservative also... 30 to 50 chemicals on average the full ingredient list and find out if the AHC.... Helps the oily stuff our skin produces ) of the family, but it 's loaded emollient. 55-83 % ) emollient plant oil that can moisturize dry skin debate and summarized research... S the - sodium form - cousin of the retinoid family is pretty much the least effective of. Bg is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products ferment Filtrate is main! Find out if the notable ingredients are good or bad for your skin concern around 1950 and today it bind... Fermentation of a liquidy, almost-water-like stuff that you like and it also... In our lengthy retinol description the problem is that the whole SKII brand is built on and... Strong point is skin-brightening creams are known to have the highest concentration of ingredients and two!
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